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The best place to visit: Education and recreation in a Gwangju park
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Kyle Johnson
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The effects of the Gwangju Democratization Movement of 1980 still linger today, and any visitor to Gwangju should take advantage of their opportunity to learn more about this period of Korean history.
On May 18, 1980, citizens took to the streets to protest the military dictatorship. Days of clashes between the protestors and troops resulted in many deaths.
A cemetery for those who perished in the skirmish is a must-see, as is the museum dedicated to the event at the same site. Unfortunately, the cemetery and museum are difficult to get to, especially if you're unfamiliar with the area and don't have a lot of time.
Another place to learn more about the Gwangju Democratization Movement is the May 18 Memorial Park, located in the Sangmu neighborhood of Gwangju. This park combines urban green space, sculptures related to the park's namesake, and a Buddhist temple, all in an easily accessible space. If you only have a short time to spend in Gwangju, this park should be at the top of your to-do list.
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The May 18 Memorial Park has something for everyone. If you're looking for history, check out the May 18 Culture Center and sculptures, which tell a little bit more of the Democratization Movement tale. A large sculpture depicting events of the movement is near the park entrance. This statue is flanked by tall metal poles of varying heights. With the nearby stream, the site is a peaceful, dramatic place to reflect on the movement.
If you're looking for a place to spend time with friends or relax, the park has a small stream, hiking paths, and plenty of lawn space to use for games and picnics.
The park was opened to the public in the mid-1990s, when a military officer training center transferred to a different site. This school had operated at the site for more than 40 years.
The park is a memorial to the event that shaped modern Korea, in addition to being a really nice park. In its short existence, the place has become a favorite for residents. There are a number of reasons why.
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In Korea, there is no shortage of places to go hiking. Mountains and forests seem to be everywhere, especially near Gwangju.
However, many popular hiking spots require an all-day commitment that I am often not willing to provide. Gwangju's Mudeung Mountain, for example, is a great place to escape from the city, to get some exercise and take in the beautiful views of the city below. Hiking to the top of Mudeung takes at least a few hours, with an equally lengthy time commitment to descend the peak.
Once you start hiking up the mountain, there is no quick escape. You can't stop halfway up and decide to leave.
The hiking in the 518 Memorial Park won't be confused with that of Mudeung or other mountains, but it is perfect for an amateur hiker like me. I can go to the park and hike for as long (or short) as I want to. If I'm feeling lazy or in a rush, I can hike the entirety of the park in an hour; if I'm feeling ambitious, I can spend a day exploring the small trails jutting off into the wooded area. Whenever you feel ready to finish the hike, just walk down the hill and you'll end up right in Sangmu, one of Gwangju's nicest neighborhoods.
Before you finish the hike, though there are plenty of nice places to explore. Several playground areas, with recreational opportunities for children and adults alike (think public exercise equipment) are easily accessible throughout the park.
Benches, covered platforms and large patches of well-manicured grass provide excellent spots to take a rest, if your hiking has left you winded or you are in the mood for a picnic.
Owulro, a large tower easily visible from the surrounding neighborhoods, anchors the highest point of the park. From this height, park-goers get a glimpse of Gwangju's beautiful scenery. Head up to the peak when the sun is just starting its descent and the mountains are basking in a softer light, and Gwangju will become your favorite Korean city too.
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No Korean tourist attraction is complete without a temple in the vicinity, and the May 18 Memorial Park is no exception.
Mugaksa, built to serve the military as a Buddhist center in 1971, is a nice surprise for park-goers. Surrounded by dense forest, I didn't even realize the temple existed until my third visit to the park.
That is not to say the temple is unimpressive; Mugaksa has the largest temple in Jeollanam-do, in addition to an impressive and large stupa. A stupa is the mound structure that has Buddhist relics inside.
The temple has an open atmosphere to it, which is probably one of the factors that have led to it becoming a favorite place for worship for many Gwangju citizens.
There is also a large book cafe near the temple's entrance. That entrance has some interesting and large statues worth checking out as well.
Visitors can get to know Mugaksa well, if they want; the temple participates in the Temple Stay program. For more information on this, visit www.gohomestay.com/temple/tem_gwangju.php/
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Sangmu, Gwangju's new downtown
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The May 18 Memorial Park is located in Sangmu. Sangmu is one of the largest neighborhoods in the city, and in the eyes of many citizens, it is one of the nicest neighborhoods. Large housing complexes encircle the area, with a busy commercial core offering everything a person could want.
Sangmu is the home of the city's government, with the metropolitan city hall on the north end of the area and many other important buildings scattered throughout. It is also a major business base for the city.
Just steps off the main road, Sangmu becomes a nightlife destination; diverse restaurants, upscale and dive bars, movie theatres and more are heavily condensed in Sangmu. Sangmu is also an excellent neighborhood for visitors to stay in. Love motels are everywhere here, as well as more reputable places for those with discerning taste when it comes to a place to sleep.
The existence of the 518 Memorial Park in the midst of all of this is surprising, to say the least. Sangmu's neon-basked streets are a forgotten place while walking through the thick forests of the park. Sitting near the small stream in the park, eating a picnic, it doesn't seem possible that thousands of people are eating in restaurants just a few blocks away.
Sangmu is an excellent neighborhood to visit, a place not yet on the tourist agenda but popular among the locals. When you are in Sangmu, and the high-speed of the Korean lifestyle makes you feel a bit on edge, just walk across the street to the park.
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The May 18 Memorial Park is easily accessible by the subway and many bus routes. If you take a cab, the best drop-off point is the Sangmu E-Mart, located right across the street from the park.
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